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Cleaning Herringbone Wooden Flooring

This recent job in London’s trendy W11 was a great example of the benefit of wood floor maintenance. There is no need to resurface a wooden floor by sanding; when all that’s required is a good machine clean and a refresh of lacquer.

When appreciating the beauty of wooden flooring it’s hard not to notice products like Dinesen’s white oiled Douglas fir. It’s modern, light and a pleasure to gaze upon. If forced to choose the optimum wooden flooring in regards to looks, durability, and just plain old comfort, my hat tips towards herringbone oak parquet.

Its timeless appeal could grace an old Georgian house or a vast modern art gallery.

Modern engineered versions of herringbone oak flooring look fantastic, but there is nothing quite like the original solid block floor laid by a craftsman. Like all things of beauty at times it requires loving care and attention, and a machine clean and a fresh coat of Bona mega lacquer will work wonders.

Cleaning Tips for Lacquered Hardwood Flooring.

  • Good barrier mats at points of entry will absorb moisture and grit and can reduce maintenance costs.

  • Sweep or vacuum regularly to remove loose dusts.

  • Damp mop the floor using clean water and a suitable wood floor cleaner.

Machine Cleaning Herringbone Wood flooring

Stage 1 soiled herringbone oak flooring

Stage 1 soiled herringbone oak flooring

Stage 2 Herringbone Wood Floor Cleaning

Stage 2 Herringbone Wood Floor Cleaning

Stage 3 Herringbone Wooden Floor Sealed

Stage 3 Herringbone Wooden Floor Sealed

One of the big benefits of cleaning versus sanding is that cleaning can usually be performed in occupied properties because it doesn’t create dust and when complete there is no mess to clean up for days after.

Heavy pieces of furniture that can’t be moved can be protected and worked around for the duration of the works. Once the new lacquer is dry the protection is easily removed.

The cleaning process is undertaken with the application of a mixed cleaning solution that is applied sparingly. It’s of utmost importance that the application is closely controlled ensuring no excess solution is able to penetrate the flooring.

Working in small manageable areas the floor is machine cleaned by a rotary machine fitted with a black nylon pad. Weight is an important part of the process and adjusted accordingly to apply the correct pressure upon the floor, giving the existing lacquer a key for the later application of the seal.

A powerful wet vacuum is required to effectively capture and quickly lift the soiled solution from the surface. The vacuum ensures no residue is allowed to settle into joints within the flooring.  

The next stage is to thoroughly neutralize the surface using freshwater applied with a tightly wrung out mop. Once all remaining residue has been removed, the floor must be completely dry before the final stage can be undertaken.

Drying the floor surface of a whole room can take time. The use of a mechanical drier vastly speeds up this aspect of the work.

Once the wooden flooring is dry we tend to closely survey the floor and pick up on any finer details that require dealing with by hand. Although the machine is very effective there are usually a few spots or scuffs that can be improved on with detailed cleaning by hand.

Having prepared the floor for the lacquer, the application should be approached methodically. Using a flat mop or roller the seal is applied evenly working with the grain where possible. Again it’s important to work in sections and keep a wet edge at all times.

Water-based lacquers can dry quickly and can be problematic if not applied correctly. Once dry the product is usually suitable for light use. Full curing can take up to forty-eight hours, so no mats or carpets should be replaced until then.